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The Surfers Code
Respect
Surfing is all about respect for yourself and for others, so please show consideration in the water. Keep your eyes and ears open and be careful not to get in the way. Choosing to charge into the most crowded spot in the ocean when you are just learning is not the greatest idea – you’ll be a potential danger to paddlers and to other learners, are bound to be in the way of more experienced surfers, and may easily get a loose surfboard in the head for your troubles. And when you’ve been surfing for a few years the last thing you’ll want is a learner getting in the way of your best wave of the day. There is usually a less busy place up the beach a little, where you’ll be able to learn in peace. Where would you choose to learn to drive – quiet backstreets or the M25?
Rules & Etiquette
The surfing life doesn’t impose many rules, but in the water, there is a code all surfers respect to make life on a busy surf break possible. These rules are observed by all surfers and as more people take to the water the more important the code becomes. Read through and remember the following dos and don’ts to make sure its not you getting the dead eye from everyone else in the water.
The “Right of Way” Rule
The surfer closest to the breaking section of the wave has right of way. This is non-negotiable. If several people are paddling for the same wave, whoever is closest to the break has priority so if this isn’t you, pull off and give way.
Similarly, you must never take off on a wave or paddle into a wave which has someone already on it. This may seem obvious, but it involves you being very vigilant – when you are learning, trying to perfect your paddle, catch the wave and pop-up to your feet all at the right time isn’t easy, and to do this at the same time as watching along the wave to make sure nobody with right of way is already on it is a skill in itself – but one you must perfect. Listen out – people riding a wave will usually shout a warning if they think you haven’t seen them – if you hear someone shout you must pull back or you will be guilty of the prime surfing sin – dropping in – taking someone else’s wave.
Dropping in in small surf is annoying and rude, but when the surf gets bigger it’s dangerous. If someone drops in at a critical moment it can send a surfer careening off the face and into the white water where nasty accidents can happen, by surfers being pushed onto rocks or being trapped inside – being unable to escape the white water. Legendary stories from Hawaii of terrible beatings as punishment for dropping in are commonplace – some people are even rumoured to have been killed in revenge. Whether this is true or not, it indicates how serious a crime dropping in is, and the potential danger it can cause. Don’t do it!
Just keep your board under control and keep your eyes and ears peeled. If you’re out of your league, try elsewhere.
The Paddling Out Rule
When paddling out into the surf, be aware of what other surfers in the water are doing. Watch as they paddle for waves, and note which way they go once they’re up and riding – and if there is a surfer on the wave you’re paddling towards, always head into the white water behind them, never paddle in front of them as you will end up bang in their way. OK, you may get mashed by the white water, but if you take the easy option and cut someone up not only will you ruin their ride and be very unpopular but boards are hard when they hit you in the head, fins are fast and sharp, and not everyone will avoid you. Some won’t be able to, and some won’t try. Head for the white water.
Line-Ups and Locals
It would be no good if, on a crowded break, the same person just kept paddling straight to the peak and getting right of way time after time after time – to follow the ‘right of way’ rule you would spend your whole surf pulling off waves to give way to the same person. This does happen sometimes, but usually not for long – other surfers will soon put a stop to it, sometimes by bringing the offender’s session to an early end! This is where the line-up comes in. Surfers take turns on a peak, waiting patiently for everyone waiting longer than them to catch a wave and surf away. Everyone else moves up one place in the line-up and is one wave closer to their turn.
This is a great system and works perfectly on a reef break where waves are regular. But on a beach break, where peaks tend to shift about and there is a mixture of ability out on the break, the scene can be somewhat murkier. This is where hierarchy often comes into play. Reminiscent of a pack of dogs, the stronger, more dominant surfers will snag the most and best waves, leaving the scraps for the rest. The reason for this is that better surfers, and those with more knowledge of the break, will be in the right position more often when the best waves come through and will catch more. They’ve put in the hours, so they get the best results. No experienced surfer will sit patiently beside you and wait their turn while you sit in the wrong place. You will be paddled around – if you’re smart you’ll watch and learn. Rather than get annoyed, try to watch where they paddle and observe if there is a consistent peak they are headed for. If this is the case, follow discreetly, and if you sit in right place and paddle with conviction for waves the line up system will start applying – he or she will realise you are on the same peak and will have to stop paddling around you. But you’d better catch a wave soon, or hierarchy will once more kick in and you’ll be at the bottom of the pile again!
The line-up hierarchy usually follows this pattern: Local experts and older locals– visiting experts – right down the line through to beginners at the bottom. Its not a bad thing – it’s the nature of the beast and just one more aspect of surfing that gets you hooked – its frustrating to be at the bottom of the heap and gives you a huge incentive to improve. But be aware of the system and be aware of your place. If you don’t, you’ll find you have locals snaking you and dropping in, which you may not like but that’s tough. Give respect and you’ll get it back.