A Guide To Wetsuits

A Guide to Wetsuits

When shopping for a new wetsuit you need to think about a few things before you part with your money.  What type of wetsuit do you need?  Do you need a full suit, or will a springsuit or shortie do the job?  5mm, 5/3, 3/2?  Will you decide to go for the new, space age super-stretch suits, or would you prefer a more traditional zip-up number?  Double Dutch?  Read on.

How Wetsuits Work

A wetsuit traps a thin layer of water between the suit and your skin which is warmed by your body heat as you move.  This produces a nice warm water envelope which hugs your body precisely, which is why you need to make sure you have the right size.   Too big and you’ll freeze, especially if there is any bagginess at the neck for cold water to flush right through, too small and you won’t be able to move properly (or possibly ever get out of it).   Trying on suits is hard work and you will probably be sweating and cursing the whole idea by the time you find your suit, but getting the right fit is essential.

Your Wetsuit

If you are surfing in cold water then you need a good, high quality suit with good seams and you should be prepared to pay for it.  If you are lucky enough to be surfing in warm water you may get away with a thinner, less high-spec suit, but don’t kid yourself.  If it’s cold, it’s cold, and there’s no point paying £20 less and freezing your butt off all winter because you’ll end up having to buy a better suit in the end anyway and paying twice.
Wetsuits are made from panels of neoprene, which is a stretchy synthetic rubber material, sealed together using one of several different types of seam binding.   The different bindings are suited to different conditions.

Overlock Stitch

Wetsuits constructed using overlock stitch are recommended only for warm water – 18c plus.  The two edges of neoprene are rolled together and stitches wrapped around them, which can be uncomfortable as you can feel a ridge against your skin which can rub.  They are similar to the seams you find on clothing – visible from the inside, not from the outside. Overlocking doesn’t waterproof the seams well so water seeps in through, which is fine in warm water, less fine in the North Sea.  Wetsuits with overlocked seams are cheap, but for a reason.

Flatstitch or Flatlock Stitch

Also only recommended for warm water, 16c plus.  This time you can see the stitching from the outside aswell as the inside – look for stitches that look like train tracks.  The interior seam is flat and is more comfortable against the body than the overlock stitch, but water may still seep in through the seams.

Blindstitch

Blindstitched suits are recommended for cold water because the seams are glued together first, then stitched with the thread and needle holes only piercing the top area of the neoprene, making them waterproof. This seam looks similar to the flatstitch but is narrower.  Some seams are only stitched on one side. Very little water, if any, will seep through blindstitched seams.

Fluid Seal

Fluid Sealed suits are blindstitched then taped, and are suitable for very cold water – 10c and below.  The seam construction is the same as above, but the inner seams are also reinforced or covered with tape. Very little water, if any, will seep through these seams.

Thickness

Wetsuit thickness is measured in millimeters, and the colder the water, the thicker your suit needs to be.  An average winter suit suitable for most British winter water will be around 5mm.  A 5/4 suit is also a common winter suit, which indicates that some panels, usually those covering the torso, are 5mm, and some, usually the arms and shoulders, are 4mm.  Many combinations are popular, and a common summer suit is a 3/2, as the water is considerably warmer.

Size

If it’s your first suit, your natural reaction is likely to be to go for one that’s too big, because it’s easier to get on and off and it’s more comfortable.  Be aware of this and get advice.  Ask the people in the shop for their opinion.  Remember that wetsuits work by trapping and warming water between the suit and your skin.  If your suit is badly fitting this won’t happen; cold water will constantly flush through your suit and keep you nicely freezing cold.  You shouldn’t have any baggy areas, check under your arms when they are by your sides, and there should be no wrinkles in the arms or legs.   However, you must be able to move freely.

If your suit is too tight you probably won’t be able to get it on, but raise your arms above your head to check you will be able to paddle properly.
You’re bound to be tugging at the neck of the suit and convinced you’re getting strangled.  This is normal, and you’re not.  Girls have a bigger problem with this than guys due to the differences in anatomy, and some girls suits are specially designed with lower necks.  The neck will give a little with wear, and it will become more comfortable the more you persevere.  If the neck of your suit is too slack, not only will cold water will shoot down your back every time you duck underwater, but you’ll be out that night with a big red welt on your neck from where the neoprene has rubbed against your skin.

Attractively it looks like an enormous lovebite.  Look around – you’ll see examples of this soon enough – there’s always one, just don’t let it be you.  If you buy a suit and find it just isn’t giving way at all and you can’t bear it any longer, a wetsuit maker will be able to adjust it for you – ask around.

Looking after your Wetsuit

Wetsuits don’t ask for much.  Just follow a few very basic pointers and your new suit will last for ages.
When putting on your wetsuit, ease it on gradually, pulling it up over your legs like a pair of tights or stockings.  Don’t yank it, and don’t pull it by the seams – the seams are the most fragile parts of a suit. You’ll be gutted if you stick your thumb through a seam just when you’re dying to get in the water.
When taking your suit off, peel it gently, again avoiding the seams
Rinse your suit in fresh water every time you take it off
Dry it in the shade; avoid leaving it in direct sunlight as this will start to decompose the rubber